Archive for the ‘BSD Racing’ Category

Short simple post. Don’t buy Redcats made by BSD Racing. Don’t buy anything made by BSD Racing.

When I was more “noob” I used to be a fan of how light weight and quick they were but their quality is crap and Alishanmao’s video series of “let’s break redcats” is a SCAM. This is a more realistic video of how crap they are:

Notice that Ali only ran each car briefly? And btw the person driving the E-Revo was some other turd who obviously was even more noob than i was.

13 Reasons why you shouldn’t buy BSD-made Redcats:

  1. They break
  2. They break very often
  3. The chassis/parts are made of PLASTIC, not composites like the big brands
  4. The bodies are made of PVC, NOT polycarbonate or Lexan
  5. The screws used are all malleable and ALWAYS strip or break, which would later be a bitch to extract
  6. The front and rear differentials don’t mesh well, they need to be shimmed
  7. The cup joints in the differentials are made of low quality steel that cracks often
  8. They have NO chassis brace.
  9. The front chassis is a separate piece of PLASTIC, for all models, including their 1/8 and 1/5 scale which always cracks after just a few tumbles OFF-ROAD (imagine… on-road damage will be far greater!)
  10. Air filters for BSD/Redcat nitro cars cannot withstand high temperatures and they melt, and fuck up the engines.
  11. BSD and BSD-made Redcats (Aftershock, Earthquake, Backdraft, Caldera) can’t last the length of a good battery pack on a race-track with jumps and bumps, even with proper driving.
  12. You will spend more time on repairs than racing or bashing.
  13. Even though parts are cheap than the big brands, you will spend more money buying replacement parts and you’re better off getting a “proper” car, i.e. Kyosho, Ofna, Thunder Tiger, Associated, Mugen, Serpent, HPI, Hot Bodies, etc.

So many things can go wrong with them. If you have one, take the motor, ESC, or nitro engine out, and put them in a “proper” brand “race-roller” you buy on Ebay. Often you can find many good race-rollers on ebay at the end of each summer. Their saving graces?

  • Strong arms – which outlast the rest of the car
  • Good electronics – Hobbywing is really good stuff!
  • Good engines – SH Engines are also good, reliable stuff (SH engines manufactures for LRP, Dynamite, etc)

Everything else? CRAP.

If you’re a teenager saving up extra cash and can’t junk your BSD/Redcat just yet, this video may be helpful:

Even this latest car by NitroRCX is crap, because it’s made by BSD Racing.

1/5th Tucson Brushless Off Road Truck By MadGear


http://hpisavagex46.wordpress.com. Here’s my no-BS review of the BSD / Redcat Racing cars’ optional upgrades. If you happen to get hold of a car or truck by BSD / Redcat Racng, congratulations, as you’ve just picked up one of the fastest machines around. In this video, I’m gonna show you which upgrades work, which ones are a waste of money, and some additional tips to make your car run better and last through bashing better.

The tips here apply to all the BSD Racing 1/8 Scale Cars, i.e. the Land Ripper, the BS809T, the BS807T, the BS802T, the BS808T, etc, the Redcat Backdraft 3.5, 8E, Aftershock 8E, 3.5, Earthquake 8E, 3.5.

Being an importer of these cars to my country, I have the privilege of thoroughly testing them in stock form, as well as with the full set of option parts. I must say, more expensive doesn’t necessarily better. Don’t just rush out and get every single upgrade out there – as in some cases, the stock settings may be better. If you deck them out correctly, they’ll serve you very well and even win you some races here and there.

Some of the upgrades I covered in this video include:

- Aluminium Shock Tower
- Revised A-Arm Design for BSD Land Ripper 2
- Axle Extenders
- Anodized Steering Knuckles
- Steering Hub / Chassis Screws
- Steel Spur Gear
- BSD / Redcat Front Chassis Modification
- Steering Servo Upgrade
- Lipo Battery Configuration
- Loose Receiver Box Problem
- Monster Truck Wheels
- Truggy conversion for BSD / Redcat Racing

I also referenced the two websites for getting better screws:
www.RCScrewZ.com
www.Racers-Edge.com

I hope you find this video useful. Do drop me a comment if it helped you out. If you have any questions on BSD or Redcat cars, feel free to ask me anything as well.

Peace out!

RC Tips & Reviews @ http://hpisavagex46.wordpress.com.
By Julian Wong a.k.a. The Professional Bum.

Http://hpisavagex46.wordpress.com. Here’s my 2nd hand Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI WC. I bought it as a race-roller. It had lots of expensive mods already on it- all it requires for operation was a receiver, a new powerplant and exhaust muffler. As a big supporter of China-designed and manufactured products, I went for a Flysky GR3C receiver, the Taiwanese SH Engine PT28 XM-P8, and Jammin JP-4 exhaust kit by Hong Nor. Check out the video for features and list of mods. This setup should be strong enough to repeat XxxMain’s record house-jumping. What sets this apart from Redcats is how well this well holds up on nosedive crashes from hardcore bashing as well as very precise wheel camber adjustments for sharp responsive turning.

Http://Hpisavagex46.wordpress.com. Here is my BSD Land Ripper Nitro a.k.a. Redcat Backdraft 3.5. The control you see is a Flysky FS-GT3B. This is a newly broken in Land Ripper. Filmed in Chacheongsao, Thailand. Still running a little rich on HSN to keep temperatures down. The body designers sure did a good aerodynamic design but didn’t factor in air flow for cooling. Hence, I reamed out a honeycomb pattern on the windscreen and side windows. As the engine warmed up to operating temp toward the end of the video, my IPhone ran out of memory. It took several pulls to start as there was some vapor lock from a previous run. This car accelerates comparably with the Land Ripper or Backdraft 8E as it’s considerably lighter in overall weight. Body shells come in Red or Blue, wheels come in Yellow, Black or White. Stock setup comes with SH21 pullstart engine and FlySky FS-GT2 2.4ghz controller. I can do a package deal that includes all the spares you’ll need, like arms, arm carriers, front chasis, bulkhead, diff gear, spur gear, wheels.

Http://Hpisavagex46.wordpress.com. This setting-sun shot almost looks computer-illustrated doesn’t it? Here’s the BSD Racing BS802T Land Ripper Nitro or what u might know as Redcat Backdraft 3.5. If you’re wondering, the thing sticking out is the suspension “I-arm”. Thanks Kelvin for the great Pro-Line touring car slicks. Very good road-holding. Changed a steering knuckle AGAIN… Because the threads were worn I guess, and the bottom securing screw kept loosening and dropping out. This was a fun filler between tennis lessons I give to my students of http://julianwtennis.com.

Http://hpisavagex46.wordpress.com. Wanna improve your BSD Land Ripper Nitro or Backdraft 3.5? Change your shock posts to the aluminum ones for more rigidity. Change your shocks to the full-body alum alloy ones. They compress and reform so much better. Changed the steering knuckles and lower suspension arm carriers to alloy too. Change the air filter. I’ve switched to a Thunder Tiger large intake dual element one for their .28 engines. Stock is Single element (see previous post), which kinds sucks. Besides, the stock filter’s yellow pipe was melting and yellow goop was oozing down toward the carb…. Dangerous! I also changed the fuel line as there was a defect resulting air being drawn into the line, causing in air bubbles that cause engine stalling, especially during the break in stage.

Looks more like a racer now than the “entry-level” nitro cars Redcats are supposed to be. I’ve also re-binded the stock receiver to a new Fly-Sky GT3B Digital Proportional professional gun transmitter

Http://hpisavagex46.wordpress. Isn’t that a Redcat Backdraft 3.5? No it ain’t. It’s the BSD BS802T Land Ripper Nitro! Here’s a picture during break in. Pay close attention to the next couple of photos, in the later post, where I reveal some enhancements you’d like to make to yours.

So exciting! I have it specially configured to have black dish wheels, and a blue “flaming” shell.

It uses the SH-21 3-port competition engine with pull-start. I did have some thoughts of hopping up to SH-28 buggy engine out of the box, but I do have some intentions of racing this, so gotta keep within race regulations. Besides, keeping the weight down with the lighter engine is good too as it’s less likely to damage on badly timed landings. Moreover, the running distances on an off-road track largely don’t permit heavy throttling except for the straights so the 4.6cc SH engine would not be of much use – unless for bashers.

I might remove the pull-start at a later stage and turn to starter boxes- which most racers use as they are SO CONVENIENT in starting cars.

Previously, I did think long and hard between a 1/10 nitro truggy and a 1/8 buggy – I even thought of getting a second hand modded Hobao Hyper 7. But what about parts? And also, since I’m an BSD cars and parts importer for my country anyway, makes no sense for me to support other brands. Here in Singapore, we only have tracks and races for 1/8 scale nitro. 1/10 racers unfortunately come under the “fun event” segment of RC tournaments here. Besides, the OEM Backdraft 3.5 is SO LIGHT, that it’s classified under Redcat’s “Ultra-light” series so by way of elimination, the choice was quite clear. Now, I can share parts and hop-ups between my BS809T and my soon to arrive BS802T!

There were thoughts also, on as to whether I should get a more established kind of buggy, i.e. Inferno, Losi 8, D8, RC8, SX3- and indeed, those brands have great steering designs, but I think that with the BS802T’s supposed durability, and perhaps a faster, higher torque steerings servo, and the existing good weight balance, this car could be more suited to me than any other! While that’s still in transit, do enjoy some pictures… of both the BS802T (OEM), and the Redcat BSD Backdraft 3.5 to begin with.

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat BS802T

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Top View)

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat BS802T

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Chasis View)

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat Racing Backdraft 3.5 (Side View)

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Side View)

Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Back Angle View)

Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Back Angle View)

Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (ChasisView)

Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (ChasisView)

If you’re looking at getting one of these BSD Racing BS802T, or rather, OEM Redcat Backdraft 3.5s.. I currently import them for off-line sale in Singapore. I can also have them exported to your country. An e-commerce site is on the way. Meanwhile, drop me an email at adrenalineboom@yahoo.com if you’re interested.