Archive for the ‘Items for Sale’ Category

via SH ENGINES / 佶宏實業.

SH .28 Engine PT28XM1-P8

Be afraid… be very afraid… The PT28XM1-P8 by SH Engines is one mean engine that should have been branded something else. The “SH” branding sounds way too modest for something it’s caliber. A rich hobbyist could possibly found a brand on this engine and actually get away with it.

Suppose, we call this the Demon Engines’ Speed 28 XPR… That’s alot more likely than its current too-convenient label (rather than a name) that doesn’t tell you anything other than it being a .28-sized engine.

SH PT28XM1-P8 Piston Sleeve

PT28XM1-P8 Engine

SH engines are touted to be extremely powerful and reliable in their class, and this model is no different. The 4.57cc 8-port big block offroad buggy/truggy engine also features a high maximum RPM of 36,000, and a whopping 4.0 horse power. That not only means a high maximum power, but a high top-speed too. Just for comparison, the HPI Nitrostar 4.6 on the HPI Savage X only generates 1.9hp @ 28,000 RPM – but it’s also that low because it’s supposed to be for high torque. However, the SH .28 truck engine produces 3.3hp @ 28,000 RPM, hence hobbyists are going SH. The PT28XM1-P8 is currently the flagship range-topping engine by the Taiwan RC engine manufacturer.

I recently won an Ebay auction for this engine at a rock-bottom price, and I’m certainly looking forward to receiving it. This will be the new power plant on the Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI I took over from a friend. I support Asian RC products.


So exciting! I have it specially configured to have black dish wheels, and a blue “flaming” shell.

It uses the SH-21 3-port competition engine with pull-start. I did have some thoughts of hopping up to SH-28 buggy engine out of the box, but I do have some intentions of racing this, so gotta keep within race regulations. Besides, keeping the weight down with the lighter engine is good too as it’s less likely to damage on badly timed landings. Moreover, the running distances on an off-road track largely don’t permit heavy throttling except for the straights so the 4.6cc SH engine would not be of much use – unless for bashers.

I might remove the pull-start at a later stage and turn to starter boxes- which most racers use as they are SO CONVENIENT in starting cars.

Previously, I did think long and hard between a 1/10 nitro truggy and a 1/8 buggy – I even thought of getting a second hand modded Hobao Hyper 7. But what about parts? And also, since I’m an BSD cars and parts importer for my country anyway, makes no sense for me to support other brands. Here in Singapore, we only have tracks and races for 1/8 scale nitro. 1/10 racers unfortunately come under the “fun event” segment of RC tournaments here. Besides, the OEM Backdraft 3.5 is SO LIGHT, that it’s classified under Redcat’s “Ultra-light” series so by way of elimination, the choice was quite clear. Now, I can share parts and hop-ups between my BS809T and my soon to arrive BS802T!

There were thoughts also, on as to whether I should get a more established kind of buggy, i.e. Inferno, Losi 8, D8, RC8, SX3- and indeed, those brands have great steering designs, but I think that with the BS802T’s supposed durability, and perhaps a faster, higher torque steerings servo, and the existing good weight balance, this car could be more suited to me than any other! While that’s still in transit, do enjoy some pictures… of both the BS802T (OEM), and the Redcat BSD Backdraft 3.5 to begin with.

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat BS802T

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Top View)

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat BS802T

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Chasis View)

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat Racing Backdraft 3.5 (Side View)

BSD Racing BS802T | OEM Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Side View)

Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Back Angle View)

Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (Back Angle View)

Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (ChasisView)

Redcat Backdraft 3.5 (ChasisView)

If you’re looking at getting one of these BSD Racing BS802T, or rather, OEM Redcat Backdraft 3.5s.. I currently import them for off-line sale in Singapore. I can also have them exported to your country. An e-commerce site is on the way. Meanwhile, drop me an email at if you’re interested. This is the Turnigy A-6-10 200W Lipo Balancer-Charger with XT60 Leads. It comes with both RC Lipo battery charging, discharging and balancing capabilities at a rate of up to 10 Amps – that’s good enough for a 2C charge rate for 5000mah packs out there. It charges other battery types too – NiMh, NiCd, and even Lead-acid too. It comes with several adaptors for various applications- such as your receiver packs and glow starters. With an optional balance card, you can also perform parallel balance charging of up to 2 6S Lipo packs. The stock connectors are all in XT60, which is HobbyKing’s proprietary connector type. However, you can easily purchase 4mm Banana plugs with Deans or Traxxas connectors to suit your RC cars’ battery connector type.

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Glow Starter RC Engine Starting Tips
by Julian Wong

The worst thing that can possibly happen on a weekend race day at the RC track is finding out that your glow starter doesn’t work.

Glow starters fail to work for various reasons, the most common being:

#1: The battery is flat / not charged / can no longer be charged.

#2: The glow plug is damaged.

#3: There is a bad electronic connection (incomplete circuit) between the glow starter and the glow plug

With glow starter that comes with an in-built battery level meter, you are able to assess your battery level simply by connecting it to your RC vehicle’s glow plug prior to your outing to obtain an energy rating. If no rating is shown, gently rock the glow starter left to right, and even slightly clockwise until a full circuit is made. If that still fails, your glow plug could be faulty and you should unscrew it for a check.

When all’s in place, you should have a much easier time and much less guess work in starting your RC car with your regular pull start, hand-held starter or starter box. Happy racing!



* Small, light and powerful Ni-Mh battery Glow Starter.
* Enough power for a full day at the track.
* Replaceable battery.


* To charge, simply plug the A/C charger directly into wall socket. Then, squeeze the glow starter socket & place it onto the charger’s charging lead. The charging has begun.
* For initial use, do charge for 12-14 hours. Thereafter, a charge duration of 5-6 hours would suffice.
* To use on your Nitro RC car, squeeze the spring-loaded socket & place it onto the glow plug’s hexagonal body. When firmly connected, you should see a meter reading on the glow starter. “Green” indicates good battery level; “Red” indicates poor battery level that may not be sufficient to ignite your nitro fuel.
* Ni-Mh cell is stored with electrical charge, so do take head to monitor it’s capacity to prevent shorting out.
* Charge with chargers designed specifically for the BSD Racing Glow Starter Ni-Mh batteries for best results.

Now Selling $10 Below Stores! Get Yours Now For Greater Engine Starting Convenience!