Posts Tagged ‘earthquake 8e’

Short simple post. Don’t buy Redcats made by BSD Racing. Don’t buy anything made by BSD Racing.

When I was more “noob” I used to be a fan of how light weight and quick they were but their quality is crap and Alishanmao’s video series of “let’s break redcats” is a SCAM. This is a more realistic video of how crap they are:

Notice that Ali only ran each car briefly? And btw the person driving the E-Revo was some other turd who obviously was even more noob than i was.

13 Reasons why you shouldn’t buy BSD-made Redcats:

  1. They break
  2. They break very often
  3. The chassis/parts are made of PLASTIC, not composites like the big brands
  4. The bodies are made of PVC, NOT polycarbonate or Lexan
  5. The screws used are all malleable and ALWAYS strip or break, which would later be a bitch to extract
  6. The front and rear differentials don’t mesh well, they need to be shimmed
  7. The cup joints in the differentials are made of low quality steel that cracks often
  8. They have NO chassis brace.
  9. The front chassis is a separate piece of PLASTIC, for all models, including their 1/8 and 1/5 scale which always cracks after just a few tumbles OFF-ROAD (imagine… on-road damage will be far greater!)
  10. Air filters for BSD/Redcat nitro cars cannot withstand high temperatures and they melt, and fuck up the engines.
  11. BSD and BSD-made Redcats (Aftershock, Earthquake, Backdraft, Caldera) can’t last the length of a good battery pack on a race-track with jumps and bumps, even with proper driving.
  12. You will spend more time on repairs than racing or bashing.
  13. Even though parts are cheap than the big brands, you will spend more money buying replacement parts and you’re better off getting a “proper” car, i.e. Kyosho, Ofna, Thunder Tiger, Associated, Mugen, Serpent, HPI, Hot Bodies, etc.

So many things can go wrong with them. If you have one, take the motor, ESC, or nitro engine out, and put them in a “proper” brand “race-roller” you buy on Ebay. Often you can find many good race-rollers on ebay at the end of each summer. Their saving graces?

  • Strong arms – which outlast the rest of the car
  • Good electronics – Hobbywing is really good stuff!
  • Good engines – SH Engines are also good, reliable stuff (SH engines manufactures for LRP, Dynamite, etc)

Everything else? CRAP.

If you’re a teenager saving up extra cash and can’t junk your BSD/Redcat just yet, this video may be helpful:

Even this latest car by NitroRCX is crap, because it’s made by BSD Racing.

1/5th Tucson Brushless Off Road Truck By MadGear


Grabbed the wrong sunglasses on the way out- instead of my CMOS camera one. Didn’t get to record to great session of racing, bashing, big jumps, mud-drifting and engine tuning with my BSD Land Ripper Nitro running SH .21 engine and FlySky FS-GT3B.

Pit tables at Segar OffRoad RC Track

Post-run damage assessment Redcat Backdraft 3.5

This applies to BSD and Redcat Racing 1/8 range, I.e the Land Ripper Brushless, Land Ripper Nitro, Backdraft 8E and 3.5, Aftershock 8E, 3.0 and 3.5, and Earthquake 8E and 3.5. The steering knuckles are held to the steering hubs by wimpy 3mm screws. They always bend or break. This one’s a little bent, and loosened too but it’s held in by threadlock I applied. My Kyosho Infernos use Kingpins for the same purpose.

The other thing that broke was the front chasis. Too much dirt got between the front chasis and the differential bulkhead. Here’s where I have to applaud BSD racing engineer’s brilliance. Usually, had the same happened to a full-aluminum chasis, it’d warp. They realized that the front of the car takes the most beating, and made it easily replaceable! Best part? The plastic front chasis replacement cost less than lunch!

Aggressive styling by the designers at BSD Racing. This is the Land Ripper Nitro, often sold as the Backdraft 3.5. Held up very well… Only a bent screw, chipped front chasis, and a loosened front roll bar after some heavy bashing- which included some somersaults and cartwheels.

Segar Rd 1/8 Buggy Truggy Track